17. 8. 2025 – 13.00

African Cities Uncovered: Accra – Where the Past Meets the Pulse

Vir: https://www.adjaye.com/work/marine-drive/
Sunrise Africa Special

Introduction – Gold Dust and Possibility

Welcome to Accra, Ghana's beating heart and the golden gateway to West Africa.

This is a city where the air hums with heritage — where history lingers in the ocean breeze, and the future rises with every new rhythm, every street vendor's call, every young dreamer chasing light through the red soil.

Accra isn't loud like Lagos. It's not built to impress.

It's built to endure, built to breathe deeply.

But make no mistake — Accra moves. She dances. She speaks in drums. And she welcomes you home.

History – The Land of Return

Accra sits on the Gulf of Guinea, a coastal city with a past as layered as kente cloth.

Originally settled by the Ga people, it became a central trading post during colonial times — the British made it the capital of the Gold Coast in 1877. Beneath the colonial buildings and Christian cathedrals lies a deeper soul — the soul of resistance and rebirth.

Ghana was the first sub-Saharan African country to gain independence in 1957, and Accra stood at the centre of that movement.

Today, it is a spiritual destination for diasporans — a place of reconnection. The "Year of Return" in 2019 brought thousands of Black people from the Americas and the Caribbean back to their ancestral soil. The energy from that awakening still resonates.

The Sound of Accra – Highlife, Hiplife, and Afro Excellence

Accra's music has rhythm in its blood and rebellion in its bones.

You hear it in the soft melodies of Highlife, the Ghanaian genre that dominated West Africa in the '60s and '70s. You hear it in Hiplife, the blend of hip-hop and Highlife that birthed a new youth voice.

Today, you hear it in the booming tracks of Afropop giants like Sarkodie, Stonebwoy, King Promise, Amaarae, and Black Sherif.

Street Life – Red Dust, Coconut Sellers & Hustle

The streets of Accra tell their own stories.

You walk along Oxford Street in Osu, the pulse of youth culture — where fashion, food, and nightlife collide.

You ride the tro-tro, the local minibus transport system with hand-painted slogans like "God dey" or "No Weapon."

You buy fresh coconut from the roadside, watch the traffic slow as hawkers weave through cars selling water, plantain chips, and dreams.

There's no rush. Accra moves on her own time — slow, steady, warm. Yet, everyone's on their grind.

Landmarks – Echoes of Empire and Freedom

Accra is dotted with monuments of power and memory:

  • Black Star Square – The symbol of Ghana's independence; vast, open, defiant.
  • Kwame Nkrumah Mausoleum – The resting place of Ghana's founding father.
  • Jamestown – A gritty, historic neighbourhood with colonial forts, fishing boats, boxing gyms, and graffiti.
  • W.E.B. Du Bois Centre – A Pan-African haven and final resting place of the African-American scholar who made Accra home.

These landmarks speak to the legacy of freedom — of identity reclaimed and history rewritten.

Food – Flavour of the People

Accra tastes like jollof rice, smoky and spiced, a national treasure and source of friendly rivalry with Nigeria.

It tastes like banku and tilapia, with hot pepper sauce that awakens the spirit.

Or waakye, Ghana's answer to rice and beans — served with gari, spaghetti, boiled egg, shito (black pepper sauce), and a prayer.

Whether in local chop bars, beachfront grills, or night markets in East Legon, food in Accra is about identity — bold, grounded, unpretentious.

Youth & the New Accra

Accra is changing.

In the tech hubs of East Legon and Spintex, young Ghanaians are building startups, fintech companies, and creative collectives.

In Anloga Junction, they film music videos, paint murals, and speak out.

In universities, cafes, and on social media, the youth are redefining what it means to be African, Ghanaian, and global.

Today & Tomorrow – A City Rising

Accra faces challenges:

Waste management, traffic, electricity outages, economic pressures.

But it also has vision.

From improving infrastructure to digital inclusion, from tourism expansion to cultural diplomacy — Accra is rising with dignity.

Ghana is becoming a hub for African conferences, returnee investors, and Black diasporan reconnections. Accra leads this movement — not as a perfect city, but as a deeply human one.

Closing Words – Accra: Heart, Heat, and Heritage

Accra won't overwhelm you.

She won't flash her chaos like Lagos, or her skyline like Johannesburg.

But Accra will enter your spirit slowly, like an evening breeze off the Atlantic. She'll offer you roasted plantain, a smile from a stranger, and stories whispered through centuries of survival.

Accra is where the ancestors walked.

Where the drums still call.

Where the future stands barefoot, ready to dance.

This is Accra — proud, peaceful, powerful.

A city that remembers.

A city that welcomes.

A city that rises.

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